Flatts: A Quiet Haven

Experience unruffled Flatts Village for an authentic Bermudian lifestyle.

As the early pioneers fanned out from St. George’s in the 17th century, one of the next settlements they founded was Flatts Village. The first English chart of the islands, drawn in 1610 by Admiral Sir George Somers, referred to a small house at the inlet, no doubt constructed by a castaway from the Sea Venture, which had wrecked on the reefs a few months before.

Today Flatts is a family-friendly village of shops, restaurants and the fabulous Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo, with clusters of pastel-painted cottages, well-tended yards and rustling palm trees. It offers an authentic place to experience the lifestyle at the heart of Bermudian culture, without the clamour of St. George’s to the east or Hamilton to the west.

At times, members of parliament met here, although the capital remained in St. George’s. Smugglers also plied these waters, since customs officials remained in St. George’s, too. The village overlooks the calm, protected waters of Harrington Sound, good for sailing, snorkelling and waterskiing. In a previous life, the harbour bustled with commercial traffic, but today it is too shallow.

Homes of the wealthy and prominent dot the area. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, larger-than-life American writer and humorist Mark Twain was a frequent visitor to friends here. Twain often stayed at Wistowe, the gracious waterside home of Charles Maxwell Allen and his wife, Marion Schuyler Allen. In the 1860s, he served as President Abraham Lincoln’s consul in Bermuda, an important position during the U.S. Civil War. He kept his job here until his death in 1888.

Much of what we know about Twain’s visits to Bermuda was written by Marion Allen. She died in 1909, and her stories were published posthumously in the British magazine The Strand. Both Allens are buried in the St. Mark’s Church cemetery in Smith’s Parish.

Other luminaries have also chosen Flatts. In 1928, Canadian inventor Reginald Fessenden, a pioneer in radio technology, bought Wistowe, remodelled it and lived here until he died in 1932. On his grave, also at St. Mark’s, the inscription reads, “His mind illumined the past and the future, and wrought greatly for the present.”

Flatts may be flat, but the name does not reflect topography. More likely it results from a tortured transliteration; a 17th-century deed refers to the area as Fleighst. Fleigh is a Dutch word that describes a frame for drying fish or tobacco ­— a major crop at one time.

By the 18th century, residents had turned to shipping and fishing, and Flatts became a busy port. Maritime prosperity lasted until the 1850s, when sand finally clogged the harbour and made entrance impossible for larger ships. Flatts morphed into a sleepy fishing village until 1926, when the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo opened just across the inlet in Hamilton Parish and Flatts entered the new, more prosperous era of tourism.

Things To See and Do In & Around Flatts

Flatts Village makes a good base for exploring Smith’s and Hamilton parishes. Harrington Sound is an inland lake shared between them, perfect for fishing, swimming, sailing, kayaking and gazing. Surprisingly deep — about 70 feet (23 metres) — it features bays, caves, cliffs and coves, but no beaches.

The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo is one of Bermuda’s premium visitor attractions, dedicated to inspiring appreciation and care of island environments. A treasure trove of native fishes, exotic reptiles and birds, including pink flamingos, the facility offers education and entertainment in a beautiful setting. Children love the touch pool in the Local Tails exhibit, and Discovery Cove is an interactive haven for children of all ages. Enjoy the spectacular view of Harrington Sound from the coastal walkway. Learn about Bermuda’s geology and habitats in the Natural History Museum. BAMZ opens daily except Christmas Day, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last admission 4 p.m.). Adults pay $10; children ages 5–12, $5.

East from Flatts, cruise the pretty residential and estate roads overlooking the sound. Particularly pleasant is the stretch between Palmetto Bay and Devil’s Hole, a natural aquarium full of fish and turtles, fed by waters from the south shore through a winding cave system. It gets its name from the eerie sounds made by winds rushing through it, feared to be the moans of Beelzebub himself. In the early 1830s curious passersby turned the hole into one of Bermuda’s first tourist attractions. Today visitors pay a small fee to enjoy it.

John Smith’s Bay and Park on the south shore offers a lovely beach. The swimming and scenery are magnificent, with a lifeguard on duty during summer. Facilities include picnic areas, public conveniences and a lunch wagon. It was named for 17th-century English adventurer Captain John Smith, one of the original colonisers of Virginia, whose life was once spared by Chief Powhatan at the urging of Princess Pocahontas. Smith wrote about Bermuda, but he never actually visited.

Bermuda’s first and largest wildlife sanctuary, Spittal Pond Nature Reserve, was set aside in 1954. The name probably derives from various towns in Scotland. The pond emits a sulphurous scent that must smell glorious to migratory birds because they congregate around it, delighting birdwatchers from November to March. Prominent visitors — the birds, not the watchers — include blue-winged teals, mallards and other ducks, pied-billed grebes, herons, egrets and American coots.

Within the sanctuary was a landmark called Spanish Rock, until 2009 when it was renamed Portuguese Rock. It was believed that its famous carving “RP 1543” had been made by a Spanish sailor, but newer research indicates the author was a Portuguese castaway. At the rechristening ceremony, Minister of Culture Neletha Butterfield said, “We should recognise that Portuguese Rock is a poignant reminder that Bermuda has and will continue to have strong cultural connections with Portugal, and a shared maritime and international commercial history that built the foundations of the modern Atlantic world.”

Bermuda has more churches per square kilometre than anywhere else, and those houses of worship preserve the nation’s architectural history. In Smith’s Parish, visit St. Mark’s Church, an Anglican outpost consecrated in 1849. At first a plain building, its ornamentation became a lifelong project of Rev. George Tucker and parishioner Jeremiah Scott Pearman, responsible for the high tower, buttressed spire and topping cross. This fine example of Gothic Revival style replaced Harris’ Bay Church, which stood on the site from the early 1700s. A silver chalice dated 1676 is a treasure remaining from the original church.

Verdmont Museum, unchanged since the 1700s and now owned by the Bermuda National Trust, earned a major award for its restoration. The three-floor Georgian manor with period artefacts is graced by rose and herb gardens, and opens to the public most days for a nominal fee. The home has fireplaces in eight rooms, a superb staircase, and collections of furniture crafted from Bermuda cedar, English and Chinese porcelain, Georgian silver, oil paintings and antique children’s toys. With luck, you may even see one of the resident ghosts. It requires no luck, however, to see its stunning views.

West of Flatts Village, Gibbet Island, also called Gallows Island, offers a gruesome bit of history. It was the site of several executions — witch burnings and hangings. One particularly infamous case involved a slave named Indian John. Having had enough of his owners, he tried to set the house afire and seized a pistol, intending to shoot the entire family. After being captured, he was executed by beheading.

The Bermuda Railway Trail is one of the best ways to appreciate the scenic north coast by foot or bicycle — nothing motorised. Train service ran through the islands from 1931 to 1948. Now a wonderful walking trail, sections of the train’s pathway still remain. And don’t miss the Bermuda Railway Museum, just west of Flatts in Hamilton Parish. It displays a collection of maps, photographs and memorabilia in an old railroad station.

Finding Flatts
Reach Flatts Village easily on the No. 10 or No. 11 buses, or whilst hiking the scenic Bermuda Railway Trail.

DID YOU KNOW? Among the best places from which to view Flatts is the T-dock or grassy area across the street from the aquarium. Another great viewing point is from Flatts Bridge. You can even walk under the bridge by using access points on either side.

DID YOU KNOW? Flatts Village is where helmet diving got its start in Bermuda. Even novices can explore the ocean by wearing an air-filled helmet, or bell.

DID YOU KNOW? Harrington Sound was named for Lucy Harrington, the 17th-century Countess of Bedford.

DID YOU KNOW? Rustico in Flatts Village is a charming Italian restaurant serving innovative dishes with a twist: lobster tail wrapped in locally grown Bermuda spinach drizzled in a warm mango dressing and topped with prosciutto.

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