Royal Naval Dockyard: Fortress of Fun

Once the island's bastion of military might, Royal Naval Dockyard has transformed itself into its epicentre of entertainment.

If not for Bermuda's Royal Naval Dockyard, celebrating its 200th anniversary in 2009, the United States' new president might have moved into a White House far different from the one the world has come to know.

It was from here in Dockyard — at one time Great Britain's largest overseas naval facility — that warships set out in 1812 to attack Washington, D.C., capital of the fledgling federation of states.

Redcoats ransacked the new home of President James Madison, then set it ablaze. It was burned so badly that, after the war ended in 1814, renovators had to whitewash the exterior thoroughly. It was during this renovation that the porticoes and other architectural embellishments so familiar today were added.

Bermuda-based troops never again threatened the United States, but Dockyard continued to grow in strength. "Royal Naval Dockyard was the largest facility of its kind outside of the United Kingdom," says local historian and guide Tim Rogers. "Britain meant business when it built Dockyard."

Today, Dockyard means business, but of a gentler sort. Now the West End fortress is all about the business of pleasing the thousands of tourists who flock here from around the world. Want to join them for a fun day you will never forget? Reaching Dockyard is a snap.

A Walk Though History

If these old stone walls could speak, what stories they would tell! When you visit the lively Royal Naval Dockyard today, it is difficult to imagine its earlier martial incarnation.

Dockyard's history began when the British, recovering from the loss of several key ports after the American Revolution, decided to establish a naval presence in Sandys Parish, pronounced "Sands," in Bermuda's West End. At the tip of the fishhook-shaped island chain, the 75-acre site offered ample space for mooring and strategic oversight.

In 1809, slave labourers and convicts were pressed into service to construct wharves, outbuildings, barracks and a massive fortified keep that was well stocked with gunpowder.

Bermuda's Dockyard played important roles in both World Wars, and its closing in 1951 marked the end of a proud maritime tradition. The government reclaimed Dockyard and the land on which it stood. Then, for almost three decades, the stone buildings sat empty, an almost-forgotten reminder of a glorious seafaring past.

Now the renovated military base is packed to the max with fun-filled attractions. Shoppers browse amongst the boutique stores in the Clocktower Mall and chat with artisans in the Bermuda Craft Market. The Bermuda Arts Centre draws visitors with a keen eye for beauty. History buffs hang out at the Bermuda Maritime Museum, and just about everyone looks forward to the watery fun at Dolphin Quest.

The West End Development Corporation is largely responsible for this new life. WEDCO redeveloped the area into the intriguing place to live and visit that it is today, including activities like Destination Dockyard and this year's 200th-anniversary festivities.

In 2009, Dockyard celebrates its bicentennial with a full schedule of special events, including tall ships mooring at Dockyard, ancient military ceremonies, modern goodies and entertainment, and kids' programs. Festivities climax in December, featuring appearances by Santa, shopping incentives and entertainment, followed by a New Year's Eve concert with bagpipe music, cannon fire and fireworks at midnight.

An exciting event takes place at Dockyard each Monday evening from June 8 - August 17th, 2009 from 6:00pm - 2:00am, Sponsored by WEDCO and the Bermuda Department of Tourism and hosted by the Bermuda Chamber of Commerce, NCL and Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, Destination Dockyard is a not-to-be-missed evening of music and dance. Shops stay open late, and many vendors are on hand to greet visitors stepping off the ferry (a special ferry operates from Hamilton for this event). Watch for the Gombey dancers in their unique sequined and beribboned costumes. Their drumming and dance routines honour Bermuda's diverse heritage.

Although great changes have come to Dockyard recently, echoes of its maritime past can still be heard in the gentle lapping of the water on the shore, in laughter rippling from pleasure boats plying the turquoise water and in the deep-throated horn blasts of cruise ships anchored nearby.

Let's Explore

Visitors can rent a scooter from Oleander Cycles, Bermuda's No. 1 cycle livery, offering quality scooters at competitive rates. In Dockyard, Oleander Cycles is located at Cockburn Road (234-2764). They also operate at Valley Road in Paget (236-BIKE), Gorham Road in Hamilton (295-0919), Middle Road in Southampton (234-0629) and York Street in St. George's (297-0478). The company provides instructions and a practise area. The Dockyard location is open when cruise ships are in port. (oleandercycles.bm)

Start exploring on Maritime Lane, running around the far end of Dockyard. Here you find diverse artisans, exhibitions and historical delights at the Bermuda Arts Centre. Voted Best of Bermuda's Best Art Gallery 2006, it is one of the islands' premium galleries, featuring both traditional and contemporary art created by local artists. On location are four studios where you can meet the artists and see them at work, including an oil painter, a cedar-wood sculptor, a jeweller, and textile and ceramic artists. The gallery also has a large selection of prints and locally crafted gifts, ensuring that no one ever leaves empty-handed. The arts centre opens daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (234-2809, www.artbermuda.bm)

After leaving the arts complex, stroll along picturesque Maritime Lane towards the main entrance of the old cooperage building, where Dockyard coopers made barrels for shipboard storage of salted beef and freshwater. Today the building houses the Bermuda Craft Market, established by the Department of Tourism and Chamber of Commerce in 1987. It is the largest, most extensive such outlet in the islands, featuring the works of 60 Bermudians. Each day, you will find artists happy to explain their crafts as you watch them work, and many will customise crafts as unique gifts. Candles, Bermuda cedar work, ceramics, jewellery, fabric art, painted glassware, three-dimensional decoupage, needlework canvas, Christmas ornaments and quilts are just some of the items available. Visit the co-operative from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in winter. Opening hours may vary on Sundays and public holidays, and hours are extended when cruise ships come into port. (234-3208)

Do not miss the Bermuda Maritime Museum, located in the bastion still known as The Keep. Enter by crossing a bridge over a moat, which makes visitors feel transported into the past, especially as they admire the vaulted ceilings and 30-foot-tall ramparts. Artefacts reflecting Bermuda's rich seafaring history are on display. See the restored 1856 Dockyard clock, with its nine-foot-long pendulum, three bells and elegant brass work. The museum opens daily 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., with the last admission at 4:00 p.m. Adults pay $10; seniors, $8; children ages 5 to 15, $5. Children younger than 5 are admitted at no charge. (234-1418, www.bmm.bm)

Before leaving the museum, visit the Commissioner's House, a grand home built in 1823 that now holds changing exhibitions devoted to Bermuda's history. The views from the Commissioner's House are outstanding, so be sure to bring a camera.

Follow your nose to the delicious aroma of the Bermuda Rum Cake Bakery, and enjoy a taste of the islands with traditional rum cakes baked in the Cakery, a micro-bakery custom-designed for this duty-free island indulgence. Rum cakes here are made exclusively with Bermuda's signature Gosling's Black Seal rum. Back at home, indulge yourself anytime with one of these mouthwatering cakes. Flavours include traditional black rum, rum and ginger, rum swizzle, banana rum, coffee, coconut rum, and rich, dark chocolate rum. (234-4216, www.bermudarumcakes.com)

But your tour is just heating up: Steps from the ovens of the bakery, temperatures rise as you approach Dockyard Glassworks. At this spacious studio, artists tempt your senses with their glass creations. Visitors may relax in an armchair theatre and watch for hours as the craftsmen create fantasies from molten glass. Then you can purchase Bermuda glass collectibles, such as whistling tree frogs, honeymoon hogs, and multicoloured fish and birds. The glassworks opens daily 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., or until 9 p.m. when ships are in Royal Naval Dockyard. (234-4216, dockglass.com)

A short walk from there, at the North Basin building, is Makin' Waves and the Dockyard Pharmacy. Makin' Waves has been Bermuda's headquarters for active sportswear for over 20 years, featuring surf brands such as Quiksilver, Roxy, Oneill and Billabong; sunglasses from Oakley and Maui Jim; and dive and snorkelling equipment by Mares, Dacor, Sherwood and Atomic Aquatics. With three locations — Water Street in St. George's, Front Street in Hamilton and the newest location in Dockyard — Makin' Waves is able to supply residents and visitors alike with the very best in active sportswear for island fun in, on or under the water. (234-5319)

Dockyard Pharmacy opened in 2009 as a division of Phoenix drugstores. The pharmacy stocks a wide selection of European and American prescription and over-the-counter medicines, as well as vitamins. It carries an assortment of local and international newspapers and magazines, health and beauty supplies, snacks and beverages, postcards, greeting cards, souvenirs, beach gear, and sun-care products. Open Monday to Sunday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., the pharmacy is located in Dockyard, adjacent to popular tourist attractions. (279-5410, 279-5515 prescriptions)

Do save some money for other purchases. As you will see, Dockyard bursts with interesting shops and boutiques, many in the charming Clocktower Mall.

Take to the Water

Dockyard's beautiful blue-water backdrop entices many visitors to dive right in.

Consider an up-close meeting with one of the planet's most intelligent creatures at Dolphin Quest Bermuda, located at the Bermuda Maritime Museum. Take a journey into the intriguing world of the dolphin through face-to-face encounters both in-water and dockside. Discover an atmosphere of adventure, mixed with education and a wide range of encounters for adults, children, families and groups. Dolphin Quest is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Reserve your encounter online in advance. (234-4464, dolphinquest.org)

Come discover the exciting features of the Snorkel Park, just minutes away from bus and ferry stops. Visitors gasp in surprise as they emerge from a limestone tunnel onto a tropical beach setting, complete with modern beach equipment and amenities. Whether you want to kick back and relax or have some fun, Snorkel Park is a place not to be missed. From snorkel gear, paddleboats and kayaks to inflatable toys and water slides for the kids, they have something for everyone. More adventurous visitors can try the fun, new underwater scooters, take a Snuba tour or hop aboard the banana boat for a wet and wild ride over open water. Beneath the waves, you can explore the wonders of a natural coral reef, showcasing beautiful tropical fish and a sunken sloop, appropriately named Seahorse. Snorkel Park opens daily at 9 a.m., admission is free, and the friendly staff will do their best to make your visit memorable. They look forward to seeing you soon. (234-6989)

Time for a Break

After you dry off, surely you will be ready for a cool drink and a bite to eat, and Dockyard offers several good places.

Serving breakfast 9-11 a.m. and lunch to 4 p.m., Beethoven's offers a wide variety of local and European creations from award-winning chef/owner Livio Ferigo. With a full bar, mouthwatering menu, and choice of indoor comfort or alfresco waterside dining, Beethoven's is the perfect choice whilst visiting the West End. On Sunday until noon, they feature a traditional Bermuda codfish breakfast with all the trimmings, including Johnny bread. Located in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, Beethoven's is only steps from the ferry, bus, craft market, shops, Dolphin Quest and more. Bon appétit! (234-5009)

Another great dining experience is Bone Fish Bar & Grill. With an exquisite view of Bermuda's breezy Great Sound, an award-winning top-rated chef at the helm and plenty of fresh fish and top-grade meats, how can you go wrong? Bone Fish offers locals and tourists alike a reasonably priced menu with seafood, homemade pasta, great wines from around the world, draft beer and desserts to die for. Dine in the main restaurant or alfresco on the sun-drenched deck. All are welcome at the newest, happening place to eat in Dockyard. (234-5151)

The casual Freeport Seafood Restaurant, Bar and Sushi Bar serves up fresh local fish and other family favourites. Surf the web or e-mail your friends from one of the four computer terminals in the cybercafe. Just inside the gates of Dockyard, Freeport caters to all appetites and budgets. (234-1692)

Step back in time and drink in the historical atmosphere of the English-pub-style Frog & Onion. At this unique pub, you can enjoy casual meals or elegant dinners. Children love the large game room. Order one of their fine brews from their on-premises microbrewery, the Dockyard Brewing Company. (234-2900)

Join your friends at Hammerheads Bar, Bermuda's newest hot spot for day and night enjoyment. Sample their local rum potions as you gaze over the turquoise seas. Feeling hungry? Pop downstairs to the grill for a variety of tasty dishes and snacks. (234-1300)

For a dollop of dessert, amble over to the Nannini Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Parlour in the Clocktower Mall, scooping Häagen-Dazs ice cream, sorbets and frozen yogurts. (234-2474)

DID YOU KNOW? The Dockyard Keep was used to store gunpowder and ammunition for the British Royal Navy.

Visit Royal Naval Dockyard at www.thewestend.bm.

Enjoy Bermuda's historic sites and attractions by booking your visit online now.

Interested in learning more about Bermuda history? Please see our History section.

Make your Bermuda trip even more memorable with dolphins! Dolphin Quest offers fun, interactive dolphin encounter programs for all. Book your adventure today!

Have a fun-filled vacation with a cycle from Oleander. If you can ride a bicycle, you can easily ride an Oleander scooter. See all of Bermuda...reserve one today!

Getting Around Bermuda Relax, enjoy, save and see Bermuda by bus. A blue or pink pole indicates bus stops. If the pole is topped with blue, the bus travels from Hamilton; if the pole is topped pink, the route is toward Hamilton.